6150 Vs 5160 Steel
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Sc. Creative Anachronism. The choice of steel and heat treatment (you can't separate those two things) is a compromise between hardness and toughness (mostly) and other things such as ease of heat treatment, ease of making the sword, corrosion resistance, and cost.Generally, a carbon steel with about 0.6% to 0.7% carbon is best. That is, a spring steel (although a sword will usually be heat treated to be quite a lot harder than the steel would be at the ideal spring temper). There are better steels than plain carbon spring steels (e.g., 1060, 1070) and low alloy spring steels (5160, 9260, EN45), but these steels are easily good enough in practice. The 'better' steels can be much harder to get the heat treatment right with, especially with low-tech heat treatment.If you value hardness more, you might pick a higher carbon steel (e.g., 1095, T10).
If you value corrosion resistance a lot, you might use a stainless steel (like the Japanese navy did).Difference in density and elastic modulus (Young's modulus) is negligible across the steel alloys you might use. For a given geometry (length, width, thickness, taper, cross-section), the sword will weigh the same and have the same flexibility. What will change will be edge retention (due to hardness), how far the blade can be bent before it fails, and whether it fails through staying bent or snapping, and how likely the edge is to chip, notch, or roll. Since many of these are affected by the geometry, the choice of steel and the choice of geometry depend on each other. Just an addendum to this: 5160, 9260 and 6150 are all examples of low alloy, high carbon steel.Plain carbon steels like 1060,1070,1075,1080,1084/5 and 1095 are all suitable for swords, but have very simple compositions: iron, and carbon.
No added alloying compounds.The common alloying compounds added are silicon for flex and toughness, tungsten and vanadium for wear resistance/edge retention (via carbide formation and ferrite stabilization), molybdenum (similar to tungsten), chromium for hardenability (in low amounts for low alloy steels). 9260 silicone is what Cheness uses on their practical weapons.
Handmadesword.com has heat treated 1060 that is great for bamboo or omote cutting practice, once you get your form down. Cheness is forgiving for beginners and your blade won't be dinged and dented as you get the snake's mouth proper tight and cutting edge positioned just right. 1060 will banana in omote if your form is weak, a true embarassment to the steel. I've witnessed an overconfident beginner borrow a legit swordsman's 1060 katana and proceed to bend him right out of shape in just a 1/2 omote without a bamboo core. (Clearly, all my info is JSA- and Japanese-style sword based, I've no idea what's ideal for Chinese or European martial arts).
6150 Steel Wiki
'Best' is always going to be subjective depending on the type of sword and how it's used. If I had to pick just one I'd probably go with CPM-3V. This steel is often used for things like tractor blades because of its extremely high toughness, but can be made very hard (60+ HRC) at the same time. I have a friend that has a katana made of this material and I almost consider it cheating when he uses it for tamashigiri.of a swordmaker taking his newly finished CPM-3V katana and doing some yard work with it. Cutting down trees, even small ones like these, isn't something even trained swordsmen would do for fear of damaging their blades.
Where To Buy 5160 Steel
This thing doesn't even get a scratch on it. Pretty impressive stuff.